When I
started planning my orchard, I had never heard of Restoration Agriculture, or Mark
Shepard. During the course of the summer
when I worked as an organic farm inspector, the words Restoration Agriculture
and Mark Shepard kept popping up at the most interesting farms I visited. My personal interests make this a biased ‘most
interesting farms’. I love perennial crops. Fruit trees, asparagus,
perennial herbs, nuts, and perennial veggies. You get the picture.
What is
Restoration Agriculture?
Restoration
Agriculture is a way of farming that has the ability to produce many human
staple food crops on fields that are unusable to, or have been depleted by
annual crop production. It is a way of farming that aims to restore or
improve the health of soils, microbiology, wildlife habitats, and waterways
that are connected to the production site. How? It relies heavily on imitating
the natural ecosystems that were in place before modern man changed the face of
the planet. By imitating the indigenous ecosystem of a region, the hope is that
we can choose crops that function well in a climate without needing constant
attention and coddling.
How do you
imitate the natural ecosystem to create a farm? Mark Shepard mainly focuses on
the oak savannah at his own farm. To oversimplify things, he
has rows of perennial crops with space for cattle to graze beneath. He can grow
oak, apple, currants, raspberries, pears, grapes, hazelnuts, and animal flesh
and eggs on a hill that if it was under conventional management would be
useless for growing corn and could only support a handful of grazing animals.
He argues that despite the individual crop yield being lower per acre than a
conventional farm, the overall yield if you add the crops together will bring a
higher caloric yield than a field equivalent in size that grows corn or soy.
All the
while, this system uses no sprays. Animals graze down the grass that competes
with the trees and pests are controlled by tree frogs, bats, and ‘good’
insects. Pruning trees is performed by cattle and wild deer. The apples do not
all end up looking like the ones in the pyramid display at your local
supermarket. The best ones are sold for fresh eating, the rest can be juiced to
make delicious cider.
Maybe you’ve
started to notice similarities between me and Mark Shepard? Mmm,
cider.
Corn needs to be planted, sprayed, weeded, and stalks plowed under every year (despite no-till getting more and more interest). Vegetable crops need to be covered by row covers, hand weeded, or chemically sprayed, protected from insect, frost, wind, and rain damage. Agriculture is an awful lot of WORK and the returns are not often what anyone would call ‘profitable’. There is one chapter in his book that Mark Shepard begins with the sentence “On the whole, unless someone has special circumstances, nobody is really making any money in agriculture”. He has a few examples of farmers operating at huge losses until they go out of business.
I don’t
want to use sprays on Eden’s Rise, or get too obsessed about things being
perfect. I do want it to be an Eden for humans and animals alike. The most
exciting moments this summer were when I either got to eat a berry or
discovered an amazing new bug or animal in the field.
During the
course of my farm inspections I visited a few blueberry farms. One had netting
over their entire crop. The farmer explained to me how they had just come up
with a new way to set up the netting that took half the time (still several
days of labour for the whole team, and that doesn’t include taking it down
again), and also complained about being organic because they had to spend 30 hours
squishing caterpillars that were ravaging the crop. By contrast, another
blueberry farm I visited had no nets, and apparently no pest problems. The
farmer said he couldn’t be bothered with the nets, his harvest was able to pay
all the bills, and his personal thoughts were that birds prefer protein over
sugar. The birds were probably eating as many bugs out of the blueberry plants
as they were eating blueberries. When labour is a huge cost in your business,
cutting out a useless practice like this could save you a lot of money. Sure,
you probably will get a smaller harvest. But a smaller harvest with fewer
expenses might actually lead to
greater profits.
Mark
Shepard also talks about a process of selection whereby he plants a lot of
seedling trees and lets the ones who want to die, die, and the resulting trees
are strong and capable of surviving his unique environment. Eden’s Rise is only
one acre, and I don’t have the capital to get crazy planting thousands of trees
and hoping 5 of them will be incredible performers. What I did was similar,
albeit I let other people do the work of selecting varieties for me. I planted
a wide range of different fruits, and different varieties of the same fruits in
order to discover who does well on a shallow, heavy site. I will see what
survived the first year and be able to start a second shopping list of the
crops and varieties that I will be planting more of in 2018.
If you have
any intersecting interest between agriculture and conservation, or an interest
in permaculture, I would recommend watching a couple Mark Shepard talks on
YouTube. He can be pretty condescending, self-aggrandising, and evasive on
the certain subjects, but what I enjoy the most about him is that is stirs in
you a new permission to dream up your own way of solving the ‘problems’ of your
site without relying on the usual Big Ag expensive ways of ‘fixing’ what doesn’t
work for a specific crop.
Have a
lovely week!
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